That morning, the waves weren’t big, but they were enough to make the heart race.
The board slipped away, the body fell, and salty water filled the nose. There was hesitation, a moment of wanting to stop.

Then the next wave came.
With trembling hands and unsteady breath, the attempt was made again.
Falling once more. Then getting back up.

Until finally, a few seconds standing on the board felt like a small victory beyond measure.
It wasn’t about how long the ride lasted, but about the courage to keep trying.