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On my first day surfing, I drank more “free seawater” than I actually stood on the board.

NEW

2026-04-21

“free seawater”

“Falling over and getting back up is normal for beginners. On my first day surfing, I drank more ‘free seawater’ than I actually stood on the board. Every time I got up, I fell right back down—felt more like practicing drama than doing a sport. But that’s actually where the fun is. Laugh, fall, laugh again. Little by little, without even realizing it… I finally managed to stand, even if just for a few seconds. So if you fall, just relax—that’s all part of the story!”