The moment I managed to stand on the board, time suddenly slowed down. My brain screamed:
“I CAN DO THIS! I’M A SURFER!”
Even though my legs were shaking like a TV antenna caught in the wind.

First second: a cocky grin.
Second second: I started waving at the beach (no idea who I was waving at).
Third second: the board wobbled, my faith wobbled with it.
Fourth second: I actually thought, “If I fall, what move would look cool?”
Fifth second: SPLASH!

One minute? Probably not even that.
But the joy? Every second felt priceless.

After falling, I popped back up with a satisfied look, like I had just completed a major mission.
When in reality, I only stood for a moment… and drank some free seawater. 🌊😄