At first, I was hesitant to go into the water. The waves looked friendly, but in my head it felt like a life test. Luckily, the instructor was super enthusiastic.
“Paddle! Paddle! Stand up!” he shouted with full motivation.
I stood up… for half a second… then splash! I fell.
He actually laughed and clapped.
“Good! That’s a fall full of potential!” he said.
Every time I fell, he cheered even louder, until people on the beach probably thought I was about to become a world champion.
On the last wave, I almost stood up fully.
The instructor shouted, “Just a little more and you’ll be a surfer!”
I fell again.
But this time, I laughed along.
Turns out surfing isn’t about standing for long—it’s about falling with style 😄