“Born by the beach, afraid of the ocean.”
NEW
2025-12-12
“Born by the beach, afraid of the ocean.”
This is a story about a local who was born and raised on an island famous for its beautiful ocean, yet never really felt comfortable going into the sea. The reasons vary—afraid of waves, afraid of drowning, not being able to swim, or simply thinking, “I’m just not used to it.” One day, the chance to try surfing came. At first, there was hesitation and anxiety. But after seeing so many people confidently carry their boards and walk into the water, a small spark of courage appeared. On the first try, they fell immediately. The second try—fell again. Saltwater rushed into their nose, making them cough. But each time they stood back up, their curiosity grew stronger, as if the waves were whispering, “Come on, try again. ”Finally, after several attempts, a small gentle wave approached. The instructor shouted, “Go now!” They placed their hands on the board, pushed up their body, and tried to stand. Miraculously, everything felt just right this time. The board glided forward, the breeze touched their face, and they stood—only for a few seconds—but it was their first time ever riding a wave. They laughed in disbelief. “This is crazy… why didn’t I try this earlier?” In that moment, they finally understood why so many people fall in love with surfing. It’s not about how long you stand—it’s about the courage to take the first step.
