“Don’t worry,” the instructor said with a relaxed smile. “Everyone starts the same way.”
NEW
2026-04-18
I understood why people love surfing.
The sun had just started to rise over the beach, painting the sky in soft shades of gold and pink. The waves rolled in gently, not too big, not too small—perfect for beginners. It was the kind of morning that felt full of possibility… and a little bit of nervous energy.
I stood on the sand, holding a surfboard that suddenly felt much bigger than I expected. This was my first surf lesson.
“Don’t worry,” the instructor said with a relaxed smile. “Everyone starts the same way.”
He introduced himself, calm and confident, like someone who belonged to the ocean. As we gathered around, he began explaining the basics—how to lie on the board, how to paddle, and most importantly, how to stand up.
“Balance is everything,” he said, drawing lines in the sand to show foot positioning. “But don’t overthink it. Feel the wave.”
Simple words… but not so simple in practice.
We practiced on the beach first. Lying down, popping up, falling off imaginary waves. It felt a bit awkward, but also exciting. Every time I tried to stand, I either moved too slow or lost balance halfway.
“Again,” he said, encouraging but firm.
After a few tries, something clicked. Not perfect—but better.
Then it was time to go into the water.
The ocean felt cool and alive. As I paddled out, my heart started beating faster. The waves didn’t look so small anymore. The instructor stayed nearby, watching carefully.
