The ocean looked calm that morning—but my heart wasn’t.
It was my first time surfing. Board in hand, I walked toward the waves, trying to look confident… failing a little. The instructor smiled, like he already knew what was coming.
“Just stand up,” he said.
Simple, right?
The first wave came. I paddled, pushed up… and immediately fell. Splash. Saltwater everywhere. I came up coughing—and laughing.
Again.
Second wave—fell.
Third wave—almost.
Fourth wave… I stood.
For just a few seconds, I was actually riding the wave. The world felt quiet, like it was just me and the ocean.
Then I fell again.
But this time, I didn’t care.
Because I knew—I’d be back for another wave. 🌊🏄♂️


